French Cuisine + So Much More in Franschhoek
The Cape Winelands in South Africa is a collection of charming, historic small towns and over 300 wineries nestled into rich, fertile valleys in the Western Cape. Winemaking in South Africa began in earnest in the late 1600's as Europeans, particularly the French. began to establish farming communities and settlements just to the north of Cape Town. Towns such as Stellanbosch, Paarl and Franschhoek developed over time into destinations for not only wine tasting but also superb dining. I knew it was a perfect place to add to my ZA itinerary.
I chose to stay in Franschhoek, which translates to the "French corner", given its French influence, reputation as the gastronomic capital of South Africa and walkability. I was both thrilled and disappointed to have so many wonderful dining options. Thrilled because I knew I would eat well; disappointed because it was so hard to choose which to dine at over my too short 2-day visit. I was blown away by the beauty of the village, the quality of the wine and the flavors of the food. My only wish was that I had more time to enjoy Franschhoek's riches.
Where I ate:
- Le Bon Vivant. This adorable, quiet French restaurant has an understated dining room and beautiful courtyard with mountain views. The service is super friendly; the food is superb in both taste and creativity. I had the proscuitto + melon starter which was fresh and light. The fish of the day was a perfect main dish. Le Bon Vivant allows diners to take their time; as such, I recommend making a booking in advance. I saw several parties get turned away.
- La Petite Ferme. Before heading to South Africa, friends who have been all asked if I was going to Franschhoek. Upon learning that my answer was yes, each suggested La Petite Ferme. I recommend going for lunch because the views are simply spectacular. The food lives up to the views. I had a carrot starter that is one of the best dishes I have ever had. EVER. Take a walk around the vineyard and stop in for a tasting before you leave.
- Reubens. I enjoyed a relaxed dinner at Reubens on my very last night in South Africa. It served as a lovely capstone to my trip. I really enjoyed dinner there due to the lively atmosphere and small plates menu. I had the wonderful and flavorful hot & sour soup; it was served with coconut sorbet to help offset its spicy heat.
- Big Dog Cafe. I stopped in only for coffee, which was terrific, but the all-day breakfast menu looked and smelled delicious. The breakfast at my hotel, The Last Word, was so wonderful that I didn't need to find it elsewhere. If I needed to, here is where I'd have gone.
- La Bourgogne Farm. I visited for a tasting at about 3PM and was desperate for a small snack. Nestled under tall trees and sitting with an adorable Jack Russell terrier as my companion, I enjoyed the cheese platter and the beautiful fresh air.
- Grande Provence. You'll see this mentioned here and below, and that's because I enjoyed an afternoon snack here in the outside garden surrounded by impressive sculptures and long wooden tables. Perfect with my bubbly tasting!
Had I stayed for longer, these are the spots that came highly recommended that I would have visited.
- Ryan's Kitchen. Run by chef Ryan and his wife, they architect a real experience in their small restaurant. Their goal is to make every table feel like it's a "chef table". Amongst a host of French restaurants, Ryan's Kitchen offers South African fare with references to the country's history and use of fresh ingredients.
- La Petite Colombe.This is the sister restaurant to La Colombe in Constantia but smaller and apparently more charming. Think incentive, Michelin-style cuisine is French + Asian fusion. I couldn't get in. Reservations open 30 days in advance and are tough to get, but worth it from what I am told! It's open for lunch and dinner.
- Le Quartier Francais (Garden Room). This dining room is the one open to anyone and not just guests staying at the Inn. This is fine dining in a beautiful setting.
- Pierneef à La Motte. Located at La Motte Winery, the chef here focuses on local ingredients for both lunch and dinner. Dinner is a fine dining affair.
- Marigold. Given South Africa's Indian population, one can find great Indian cuisine in ZA. If you don't get it in Cape Town but are craving the rich flavors, this is a must.
- Grande Provence. A beautifully appointed restaurant at a glorious winery and vineyard. This is again fine dining open for lunch and dinner.