Everywhere Under The Stars

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The Glorious Flavors of Hong Kong

Asian cuisine - ANY Asian cuisine - is my favourite. It's my go to. My ride or die. It never lets me down. It always delivers (pun intended.) So I was beyond excited to explore the food scene of Hong Kong. It exceeded any expectations I had, and then some.

Central District

  • HoLeeFook:  S O U N D  I T  O U T.  Though it's name is funny in English, it means "good fortune for your mouth" in Chinese. When I loved in Sydney, one of my favourite chefs was Jowett Yu. I heard he had opened a joint in Hong Kong and had to go. Self-described as "a funky Chinese kitchen inspired by old school Hong Kong cha chaan tengs and the spirit of late-night Chinatown hangouts in 1960’s New York", this did not disappoint. The vibe is hip and lively at this popular underground spot. I was there alone and was made to feel incredibly welcome.
  • Lotus: If interested in a tasty lunch spot with a great view for people-watching in the Mid-Levels, slide into a table here.  It's nothing fancy but I quite enjoyed the crispy salmon salad and a crisp glass of white wine.
  • Tim Ho Wan: Eating dim sum, for me, is nearly a religious experience. I search the world for the best crystal prawn dumpling. I did my research on the best place for dim sum in Hong Kong and all signs pointed to Tim Ho Wan, which has a Michelin star. Now, you are probably imagining white table cloths, gloved waiters, beautiful china and a very large bill at the end. But that is not Tim Ho Wan. Instead, picture a tiny, 20-table "joint" with a line around the block; abrupt but courteous servers; beverage choices of water and hot tea only - and the hot tea pots are shared across tables; paper placemats and order slips for menus; and the absolute best, melt-in-your-mouth flavors you can imagine. I loved the lack of pretentiousness and complete focus on the food. I ordered several things to try and my bill (pictured below) was 126 HK, which equates to $16 US. Tim Ho Wan now has an outpost near Union Square in Manhattan, but visiting it in Hong Kong can't be beat.
  • Luk Yu Tea House: One thing I really wanted to do was visit a traditional tea house. Founded in 1933, Luk Yu Tea House was a perfect place to enjoy delicious tea and dim sum amidst a rich history of Hong Kong.
  • LockCha Tea House: Located in the middle of Hong Kong Park in the K.S. Lo Gallery . "Lock" means happiness, good fortune and enjoyment. I felt all that and more during my visit. Make sure to visit the shop or consider taking one of their tea classes as well.
  • The Cupping Room: When exploring, I love to grab a good, strong coffee. I just happened upon this and was so happy I did. The pour over hit the spot!
  • The Clipper Lounge & The Chinnery at the Mandarin Oriental: I was told by many that a visit to the beautiful Mandarin Oriental was required. I stopped in on a Sunday evening after a day of sightseeing for a glass of bubbly and people watching.
  • Lung King Heen at the Four Seasons Hotel: This is great for a special occasion, being the first Chinese restaurant in the world to be awarded 3 Michelin stars. The views of the Harbour are breathtaking, and as always, the Four Seasons itself is beautiful. The food and experience were outstanding.
  • Mak's Noodles: I unfortunately did not make it here and I still regret it. The founder Mak Woon-chi is revered as a simple street vendor who invented the Hong-Kong classic dish of "wonton noodles" (prawn dumplings over wheat noodles in a pork broth). This tucked away spot is run by one of his grandsons and keeps to its legendary heritage.  

In Sheung Wan

  • Yardbird: My dear friend Michelle met me here for dinner after work one evening and it was just perfect. I needed a casual setting, excellent food, a local feel and a spot with enough energy to fight my jet lag but not give me a migraine. Yardbird nailed it.  The menu is focused on making use of the chicken - the whole chicken - from "neck to tail". It's well known for its yakitori skwers but also has small and large dishes that are super fun. Combine them with one of their famous cocktails and you are set for a really great meal.
  • Queen Street Cooked Food Market. This bare-bones food court features family-run stalls of Indian, Vietnamese and Thai cuisines.  (I ate at Chautari Restaurant.) Visit a stall, place your order, then stalk tables to find a seat. It's worth it. Food moves quickly, tastes authentic and is really very good. I went in a group of 8 and we had the best time! Bring your own booze and dig in to a fun adventure. You won't see many tourists there. 
  • Neighborhood: This was recommended to me by a foodie friend but I didn't make it! I love to follow French Laundry alumni and hear David Lau is phenomenal. The menu changes constantly based on whatever is fresh. Instead of a theme, he cooks to what he thinks will be delicious. This is definitely on my list for my next trip!

In Tsim Sha Tsui:

  • Peking Garden: On addition to superior dim sum, I was intent on finding great Peking Duck in HK. My Mom loves it; sometimes ordering a loved one's favorite makes the world feel a little smaller. Since Peking Duck is typically served to a group, this was one I couldn't do alone. Luckily, my friend Jean and a colleague from Singapore were game for a late night run to Peking Garden, opened in 1978 and just down the street from our meeting at the Star House where the ferries come and go. The restaurant itself is huge, filled with locals as well as Chinese visitors and absolutely delicious. We were told this was the best, most authentic Peking duck in HK and while we didn't try it elsewhere, it would be hard to beat!
  • Felix at The Peninsula Hotel, for drinks: This is a well-known, highly recommended spot for anyone visiting Hong Kong. Felix is located on the top floor with sweeping views of Central Hong Kong. The lights of the boats in the Harbour as well as the lights from the tall buildings reflected in the water are to die for. Treat yourself to some bubbly, put your phone down and take it all in. 
  • The Sky Lounge at the Sheraton Tower: The views from the Sheraton rival those of its next door neighbor, the Peninsula. The lounge is fairly large, and thus a great place for a business meeting or group of people.