I have always been fascinated with Hong Kong. My chic, well-traveled grandmother would visit often and gift me jade bracelets, Chinese toys and colorful trinkets after each trip. Fast forward to 1997 when I graduated from college just after Britain transferred sovereignty over Hong Kong back to China, and my interest was piqued. Over the years, I wondered what the culture was like - once British but always Asian. How did it become such a dominant financial center? What was the "one country, two system" government it practiced as a territory of communist China?  A work trip provided me a great but too-short opportunity to be introduced to fascinating Hong Kong.

As usual, there were typical tourist spots I wanted to hit. But after being an expat myelf, I was curious to see inside that experience as well. Luckily, a dear friend Michelle was living there at the time!

There are two "sides" to Hong Kong - Hong Kong Island (aka Central) and Kowloon - each with their own set of vibrant neighborhoods. I stayed on the Kowloon side so spent a lot of time riding the Star Ferry across Victoria Harbour, which sits between Kowloon and Hong Kong Island. Victoria Harbour is busy 24/7 with commercial vessels and ancient fishing boats still in use today. There are few sights that beat the Hong Kong city skyline lit up at night. The best places to take in the view are from the Tsim Sha Tsui promenade or over a champagne cocktail at the Felix Bar (at the top of the Peninsula hotel) on the Kowloon side.

One can't visit Hong Kong without taking the creaky (but safe) tram to its venerable mountain to the Sky Terrace on Victoria Peak. (Buy tickets ahead of time to avoid long queues. For the fit, non-jet lagged or adventurous, one can hike instead.) From there, take in the fresh air high above the skyscrapers of Central, the salt air of the Harbour and the hustle and bustle of the city. And don't forget photos!

I spent 2 days exploring different neighborhoods around Central and Kowloon. Each offers its own charm with its shops, cafes, temples and other landmarks. One you can't miss is the Central-Mid-Level Escalators. Hong Kong is built into hilly terrain and thus commuting from larger districts and through its ancient narrow alleyways is required. This series of escalators take daily commuters and visitors downhill in the mornings and then uphill the rest of the day.  Hop off and on (and be ready for stairs) as you wander the tiny streets to pop into shops, enjoy a drink at one of the many bars or sit for a people-watching lunch at one of the small restaurants. (I recommend Lotus in Soho.)

A good 70% of the 7+ million Hong Kong residents identify as agnostic or atheist. Just over 10% are Christian and another 20% practice one of the three main 'teachings' of China (Taoism, Confucianism or Buddhism). As such, there are churches as well as a healthy smattering of ancient but active temples. The visits to the temples were a highlight of my sightseeing.

• Man Mo Temple honors the  Chinese Gods of Literature (Man) and War (Mo). Built in 1847, it's known for its immense coils of incense which burn bright in a fairly tiny space. Be prepared to wander through Central to find it and to walk away with just slightly irritated eyes.
• Tin Hau Temples worship the Goddess of the Sea and tend to be frequented by fisherman. There are several in HK; the one I visited was in a fairly urban area - Yau Ma Tei on the Kowloon side - but the site used to apparently be on the coastline!
• Tian Tan Buddha is 34 meters high so it's no surprise that its nickname is the Big Buddha. Though built recently in 1993, it quickly became a favorite destination for pilgrims. It was built to face north to watch over the Chinese people. After a climb to take in the gorgeous views, visit the important Buddhist Po Lin Monastery and its garden. 

Like many Asian cities, a cheap but terrific massage is part of life. Upon the recommendation of local colleagues, I visited Rom Po Thai Oil Massage on Hollywood Road.  Signage is a little hard to come by so it took some effort to find, but once I did I was quite delighted with a 90-minute deep tissue Thai massage.  Take cash!