Barcelona: Gaudí, Gaudí, Picasso!
In September 2017, I left a job I loved after 20 years of an exciting but extremely demanding corporate career. I am fortunate to have traveled all over the world (over 30 amazing countries over the years), immerse myself in different cultures and take in foreign cities for 1-2 days on the tail end of trips. Despite intense business travel, I longed to return to Europe for a trip without my laptop and a business suit but with time to relax and enjoy. Two friends and I set off for Spain in October. After 3 days in San Sebastian, we spent 4 days in Barcelona taking in the energy, architecture and excitement of this Catalonian city. I wish I had spent even more time!
Sitting on the Mediterranean Sea, Barcelona has that special mix of beach and city vibes. It is truly a gem of Europe with something for everyone - sandy beaches, a vibrant urban center, art, food, fashion and deep history. (We were there at the height of the attempted Catalonian separation from Spain - very interesting!) It is impossible to not eat well (see my Barcelona Eats post here) and get a healthy dose of the culture just be venturing outside your hotel. But to really know a city is to dive into its arts. It doesn't get better than that of Gaudi and Picasso.
Antoni Gaudí is synonymous with Barcelona. The father of Catalan modernism, Gaudí's best work is his architectural masterpieces scattered across Barcelona. We visited four of his seven UNESCO-recognized masterpieces and were simply blown away by his genius. The best way to describe his work is Alice in Wonderland meets modern architecture and design. (Buy tickets online in advance and skip the queues. And get the audio tours. They are pretty good!)
Casa Batlló, locally called the House of Bones, was an existing building that was recreated into a mansion for the Batlló family in 1904. From its ceilings and curved windows to its stairwell and doorknobs, every inch is a wonder in and of itself. The highlight is the roof; Gaudi had a knack for transforming mediocre elements like a chimney into pieces of artistic expression the likes of which had never been seen.
La Pedrera (Casa Milà) was next. Built between 1906-1912, it was the final private residence Gaudí built and, in later years, was made into an apartment building. The tour is wonderful as it features a tour of the "attic", an exhibit of furniture he designed and then lastly a flat representing life for a former resident in the early 1900's. My favourite part, by far, was the downstairs lobby with a beautiful staircase, twisting pillars and painted ceilings.
Sagrada Família. Wow. I could stop there as words really can't do it justice. This is widely viewed as the most important of G's works. He found Catholicism later on in his life and eventually ceased all other work to devote himself to the design and build of this magnificent cathedral. Construction began in 1882 and is still not finished. The distinctive spires that flank three facades (Nativity, Passion and Glory) are only outdone by the vast, colorful interior. It is truly a sight to see. Plan to spend a few hours to take in the exterior and interior.
Park Güell was originally conceived as a new-order housing development but not enough plots of land were sold. The city of Barcelona purchased it and turned it into a municipal garden. It's amazing to explore as the modern architecture Gaudi is known for was integrated into the natural elements of the land. Sitting on a hillside, one can see all of Barcelona to the Mediterranean Sea from its highest points. The park itself and the views are captivating.
Don't be fooled! There is more to Barcelona than Gaudi. Though soaked from head to toe due to a torrential downpour on our walk there, the Museu Picasso was magnificent. One could easily spend a day there as the exhibits are vast. Housed in 5 mansions dating back to the 15th century, the museum guides you through distinct periods across Picasso's entire life. It's fascinating to watch his art (and mediums) change as he grows as a person and artist. The art featured towards the end of the self-guided tour in Room 16 was new to me and took my breath away.
