Lisbon, Portugal in a Day
Like many people, I have a top 10 list of places I’ve never been and want to visit. Lisbon, Portugal has been on that list for some time, so I was excited when work took me there for the first time in March. After a week trapped in a hotel watching the rain pour down, I had one day to see the sights. Lisbon turned on the sunshine for my Saturday of exploration.
I started with a leisurely stroll down Avenida de la Liberdade with my camera in hand towards the lively Bairro Alto neighborhood. (If you find yourself in Lisbon on a Saturday, be sure to head that way to check out the pop-up market of vintage goods. If you are into high-end or high-street shopping, head here any day of the week.) My first stop was the Elevador da Glória, which is Lisbon’s second oldest funicular (i.e., tram meets elevator). It has been transporting tourists and locals alike up and down a very steep, graffiti-filled hill since 1885. I walked the cobblestoned hill (yay me!) to the Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara which features a landing with kiosks serving drinks and snacks and a beautiful view of the red-hued roofs that spread across the city.
From there, I wandered through the narrow cobblestone streets to the charming square of Largo do Carmo and the Convento do Carmo. These next few stops may have been my favorites of the day. I wandered through some steps and an outdoor cafe to the area around the Elevador de Santa Justa (Santa Justa Lift). There is a queue for the lift but if you are able-bodied, I suggest taking the spiral steps through the cast-iron structure built with the list in 1902. At the top, I found the best 360-degree views of Lisbon! I took so many photos (and selfies!) of the view stretching from the ocean to the castle.
Next up was the Convento do Carmo (Convent of Our Lady of Mount Carmel), which is also now called Museu Arqueológico do Carmo. I could have spent all day here. Originally built around 1389, this ancient Catholic church went through many iterations before being nearly destroyed by an earthquake and fire in 1755. What makes the ruins so captivating is that the damaged columns and soaring arches were left as they were by the devastating earthquake. I felt so at peace and in awe as I strolled through the ruins on that bright Saturday under clear blue skies and with classical music filling the crisp air around me. Both outside in the nave and inside what is left of the original building is an extensive collection of ancient religious artifacts collected from other locations and excavated from the site itself. I spent over 2 hours here and could have stayed longer.
From there, I wandered through the narrow streets, passed the famous Adega Machado restaurant (popular for its fado music) and stopped for a well-deserved coffee at Hello, Kristof’s outdoor patio. Then it was time to visit the wonderful little shops in the neighboring Chiado neighborhood to pick up gifts and souvenirs as well as grab lunch. As I strolled through the area, I meandered down a big set of steps and found a restaurant called Espaço Fábulas.
I then had a decision to make - visit the Castelo de São Jorge or visit the edgy Alfama and Castelo neighborhoods. I decided after my visit to the Convent that I’d be back to Lisbon, so I chose to visit the neighborhoods. I made the right decision; I’d climbed and meandered through the narrow cobblestone streets all day all day so needed a low-key finish for sunset. These areas are filled with brightly colored buildings speckled with the famous azulejos (tiles) of Lisbon, tiny shops and art galleries. I popped into a few shops, took photos of some impressive graffiti art, marveled at the variety of azulejos and popped into a super cool gallery called Ó!Galeria from which I took home a funky painting.
The night ended with a text from dear friends from Washington, DC who happened to have landed in Lisbon that morning. I night of (a lot of) Portuguese wine and an extra large cheese platter at The Old Pharmacy was the perfect topper to a fabulous solo day!
