Everywhere Under The Stars

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Spotlight: Simbambili Game Lodge

"It'll be a bumpy ride", Charles said. "But I will get you there safely and with smiles." 

I was so tired that I didn't care. He was right about the bumps. And the smiles. Charles, my private driver, met me just off the single tarmac at Hoedspruit Airport on a hot and dusty morning. The day prior, I had traveled for 20 hours from the States to Johannesburg and then that morning had a quick 90-minute flight up to Hoedspruit Airport. From there, we had a drive through townships and along dusty roads to my first stop - Simbambili Game Lodge - in the Sabi Sands Private Game Reserve.

Protests in the townships are frequent as citizens continuously demand/beg for running water, electricity and paved roads. "This has been going on since the end of apartheid", Charles told me. As we journeyed nearly 3 hours, he told me all about life in the townships as I stared out the window at children in school uniforms, women carrying massive water jugs from communal spigots and cows blocking traffic. Everyone loves tourists as they fuel the jobs on the reserves and bring money into the local economy.

As we took a turn into a circular driveway, it was as if I came upon an oasis. From behind the lush green trees and flowers emerged the staff of Simbambili Game Lodge. I immediately felt at ease with their warm greetings. Over a refreshing mango spritzer, I was given a quick orientation and then escorted to my lodge to settle in before the afternoon game drive. I only stayed two nights and wish I could have stayed longer. Below I breakdown the 5 core elements of a game lodge stay: the rooms, lodge, service, food and game drives.

THE ROOMS. With no telephone or TV, the vibe of my private thatch-roofed bungalow - one of only eight - was ultimate relaxation. Each room has its own private deck that looks out into the bush, a private plunge pool, beautifully appointed bathroom and dreamy bed. (extra bonus was the use of only organic bath products made with marula oil.) A fully stocked, all-inclusive minibar filled with amarula liqueur, gins and South African wines made sun-filled time at the pool just perfect. At night, it was quiet save for the sounds of monkeys, owls and the occasional hyena. And speaking on monkeys, I was advised to keep my sliding doors locked when away from the room to keep the monkeys out. They break in and like to drink all the gin!! I did catch a juvenile trying to unscrew a lightbulb on my patio!

THE LODGE. The lodge itself is spectacular. The daytime views of a watering hole lead to frequent elephant visits for a drink of water. One can relax under the shade of a large tree and in the sunken lounge for a read or a nap. During the evening, it's filled with gorgeous candlelight as the incredible staff keep your wine or beer glass filled before dinner. The small gift is shop is very well curated. I actually wish I had purchased more there! The locally-made scarf I did buy served me well across the entire trip!

THE SERVICE. I was blown away by the service at Simbambili. It was personal, attentive and genuine. Everyone was simply fantastic. But it was gentle Appearance, my private 'butler', who ensured I was happy at all times during my stay. And his personal story is remarkable. Born in Mozambique, both parents were killed - in front of him and his brothers - during the civil war (1977-1992.) Human rights violations were rampant on both sides (rebels and government forces) during that time; though unclear who kidnapped him, Appearance was forced to be a child soldier. After several years of having to commit unthinkable acts, he and a group of other boys escaped to South Africa. It took 3 months of walking with no shoes in the middle of the summer. His South African foster mother, who later adopted him, named him Appearance. She had only had girls before he "appeared" and fulfilled her wish to have a son. Now Appearance spends every day of his life atoning for the sins committed whilst a child soldier.  In the photo below of me with two gentleman, Appearance is on my right.

THE FOOD. Blown away. Every meal was a gourmet meal! I was admittedly nervous about this because I am not a big meat eater. The concerns were a waste of time. Breakfast, lunch and dinner were all delicious, with difficult menu choices to make at each meal! There was always plenty of fish, lean meats, salads and fresh fruit. And the desserts were to die for! I easily gained a few pounds!

THE GAME DRIVES. Granted, I'd never been on safari before this trip so didn't quite know what to expect. Logistically, there are two drives a day - one in the morning (5:30 am - 8:30 am) and one in the late afternoon/evening (4:30 pm - 7:30 pm). Simbambili keeps each truck to only 6 guests so everyone has room to stretch, take photos and catch the breezes on a hot day. In the morning, we would make one stop for coffee/tea and biscuits. At sunset in the evening, we would enjoy a "sundowner" cocktail under orange and pink skies.

Each truck has two staff members -  a guide who drives the truck and a tracker who looks out for animals. The latter does look for animal tracks but also can smell, hear and see animals that no others can spot. As the lodge was not full when I visited, I was able to have a private game drive one afternoon! I saw the "Big 5" - elephant, lion, rhino, leopard and buffalo - as well as many others such as zebras, monkeys, giraffe, countless birds, wild dogs (which are endangered) hyenas and more. Being on a private game reserve rather than in Kruger proper meant we could travel "off road" which was critical to get close to many of the animals. The landscape was hilly and lush. The beauty was overwhelming.

All in all, this made for a perfect first safari experience. And I was genuinely sad to leave.