Pintxos in San Sebastián, Spain
One cannot visit the Basque region of Spain and not hear the word PINTXOS. And San Sebastián is known to have the best pintxos in the world. Plan a day (or more) to simply wander the town and pop into any that catch your eye.
But before diving in, what exactly is a pintxo? In short, a bite of delight. More technically, it is like a tapas, but do not make the mistake of calling these little lovelies anything other than pintxos. The word derives from "to pierce", hence why you see many presented with a toothpick.
There are pintxos bars everywhere. They are super casual and, at times, can seem downright chaotic. But it's important to note that the crowds move quickly and there is a method to the madness. I promise. There are two ways to order pintxos. The most authentic is to grab a plate and select which you'd like to eat from the array displayed across the bar. The bar staff keep an eye on you and count how many you grabbed, and they will charge you at the end. Alternatively, you can order items to be cooked on demand. Don't be shy. Once you order, enjoy the taste journey either standing at the bar or sitting at a table outside, if you are lucky enough to grab one.
Choosing which bars to visit can be overwhelming so I have provided a list of those I enjoyed the most and my favourite pintxos eaten at each.
- La Cuchara de San Telmo: ravioli de pari y hingos confitados (dumpling stuffed with duck confit - I die) & the foie gras de monfort (foie gras in an apple gravy), suckling pig
- Atari Gastroteka: riz du jour (rice of the day), beef cheeks with mash potatoes, the merlu (hake) *Michelin Guide 2017
- Sirimiri Atari Akademy: secreto iberico ("secret" pork dish - divine!!), oyster mushroom croquette, risotto with mushrooms and THE LAMB DISH (dear Lord)
- Gandarias: blood sausage with egg and red pepper, stuffed red pepper
- Bar le Cepa: omelette with potatoes, red pepper filled with meat, proscuitto on toast with tomato and salsa fresca
- Ganbara: battered shrimp, puff pastry with sausage, mushrooms with egg
- Bar la Vina: cheesecake. Order 1 serving, you get 2 humongous pieces.
Since restaurants and shops close somewhat randomly (especially on Sundays and Mondays) in San Sebastián, there were many Pintxos bars recommended to us that we did not make it to.
- In Parte Vieja: San Telmo, A Fuego Negro, Txepetxa, Astelena, Martinez, Nestor, Casa Urola, Paco Bueno
- In Centro: Kata 4, Antonio, Zazpi, Prontxio
- In Gros: Ni Neu, Cape Kursaal, Topa Sukalderia, Bodega Donostiarra, Bergara, La Guinda
Be bold! Each is small and fairly inexpensive. An order of 3 txakoli and 3 pinxtos typically costs 15 euro. Oh, I almost forgot. Never, ever, ever forget to ask for the specialty wine Txakoli. You don't want regrets and you will have them if you skip it.
If you are craving a nice sit-down meal, I can't recommend Asador Portuetxe enough. Nestled into a neighborhood in the foothills surrounding San Sebastián, it's a charming farmhouse-style restaurant that serves incredibly fresh seafood. I had simple grilled prawns and could not have been happier!
Lastly, I have to mention the most important find of the trip -- the best coffee and breakfast pastries in San Sebastián. It's a super cute cafe called Gogoko Goxuak. Take cash as it's all they accept.
