Fun Eats in "Foodie" Copenhagen
As the home of Noma and dozens of other Michelin-starred world wonders, Copenhagen is definitely a foodie's dream location. What's great is that you don't have to fork over (pun intended) your first-born child to enjoy the wonderful food. The award winners heavily influence and tutor the "up and comers" who study in their kitchens. As those daring young chefs venture out on their own, it's not difficult to find amazing food that rivals the high-priced, book-60-days-in-advance spots.
Given my trip to Copenhagen was primarily last-minute and for work (with a weekend added on at the end), I had very little time to plan and thus a crappy shot at landing a booking at the Noma's of the world. But what I did have was a great partner in crime (my dear friend Michelle) and absolutely delightful food experiences. I can't wait to revisit the flavor adventure soon. Until then, here are some of my favorites....
Torvehallern. This is the mother of all food markets located in the Sønderborg district. With over 60 stands, it offers everything - traditional Danish food, fresh locally-caught fish, spices, pastries, colorful vegetables and gorgeous flowers, to name a few. I allowed myself to saunter through, taking my time to photograph whatever caught my eye. There is so much to try there; I recommend going for an early lunch right after opening and try whatever catches your eye! Try the following:
- The Coffee Collective. The Danes take their coffee seriously, and no one does it better than this micro-roaster. Coffee making is an art and takes a little more time than Starbucks to made, but is so worth it.
- Gorms. This little stand pumps out fresh, delicious pizzas. Perfect for a snack.
- Summerbird. This is rumored to have the best chocolates in Copenhagen. I wasn't disappointed.
Grøften. This is a famous spot. It's over a hundred years old and backs up to the famous Tivoli Gardens. Think traditional Danish food.
PapirØen (aka Paper Island). The mother of all street food stalls. We walked there from across town via one of the newer canal bridges and settled into the sunshine with hundreds of locals.
- Outside, there are musicians strumming around picnic tables and a plethora of fold-up chairs to use. The day was so beautiful that we extended our lunch visit there into a happy hour; the rose was flowing as we watched boats float down the canal. Just wonderful!
- Inside, there are about 40 food stalls from which to choose a delicious bite. What I loved about the food stalls is that each had a tiny menu, so they really did whatever 1-3 things they offered really well. We ate at Fala Fala, which was good, but I wished I'd tried Oink Oink (if only for the name) or Bulko (Korean - it smelled unreal!). Wine from the aptly-named Main Bar in the center served us well for hours. Ahem.
Kul. A local friend recommended this to me as a great foodie spot that's reasonable on the wallet. I wasn't disappointed. Small plates allow you to try different things. My favourite was the glazed pork rib.
Geranium. 3 Michelin-stars for a take on modern Scandinavian food. The focus of their seasonal 20-course menu is organic gastronomy. This you'd have to book in advance; they take rezzies 90 days out.
Relae. Simple, simple, simple. And pretty perfect, from what I hear. The space is described as cool and laid back. What I really love is their devotion to organic ingredients (many dishes are centered around vegetables) and sustainable practices. Oh, and the chefs/owners are Noma alums. Not too shabby.
Mikkeller & Friends. A no frills micro-brewery.
Bror Restaurant. A set menu of either 4 or 5 courses, they have "snacks" available that are an offal lovers dream (i.e., bulls testicle fritters). I am told this spot is a guaranteed adventure.
