The Magical Gastronomy of Paris
It’s almost impossible to have a bad meal in Paris. What does feel impossible is picking where to eat! It is difficult to make a choice sometimes given all the great options there. While I love a super fancy meal every now and again, my real preference is to find somewhat casual spots showcasing local fare, fresh ingredients and, of course, perfect French wine. Here I share some of my favorites, many of which I have dined at alone and on multiple occasions.
- Verjus. On rue de Montpensier, an adorable little street, Verjus is my personal favorite spot in Paris for a special dinner. Separated by a narrow winding staircase, there is an a tiny, a la carte café and wine bar downstairs called Bar a Vins and a prix-fixe menu restaurant upstairs. Verjus is owned and run by 2 Americans living in Paris and is wonderful in every way. Sublime food made with local ingredients, perfect wine pairings and friendly service bring Paris to life in this tiny 15-table spot. I spent the best New Years Eve of my life there in 2015! I can't sing its praises enough.
- Ellsworth. Just down the street from Verjus, the same owners created this more casual spot to showcase their cooking in a casual spot. I have eaten here no fewer than 6 times and always recommend it to friends, who love it as much as I do. I can confidently state that Ellsworth makes the best fried chicken in Paris.
- Frenchie. If you've ever looked at any Paris top lists, Frenchie has undoubtedly appeared. And for good reason. It's quintessential Paris - very small restaurant tucked away down a cobbled street, a tasting menu with a fairly affordable price, two seatings per evening, a hard-to-get reservation and divine food. Frenchie also bucks Paris's reputation for rudeness; it's known for impeccable and friendly service.
- Frenchie Bar a Vins. I often find myself in Paris alone for work trips. When I do, I prefer more casual spots and Frenchie's small plate | wine bar across the alley is wonderful. If you time it right, there will be no line to get in. If you do encounter a line, don't worry. It moves fast.
- Les Cocottes. 135 Rue Saint-Dominique. Amazing. Christian Constant is the Jose Andres of France. We waited in queue outside for 45 minutes the 1st time we went but it was worth it. As with everywhere in Paris, don't skip dessert. The waffles here are TO DIE FOR. I have been 5-6 times to the location near the Eiffel Tower; it's great to walk off your dinner afterwards with a stroll to see the Tower's lights. I have also been to the new location near l'Arc de Triomphe, which is a little more upscale but also terrific.
- Semilla. Looking for a casual bistro with high energy and inventive French fare? Look no further than Semilla in St. Germain. We were taken here by a friend who owns a bar in Paris and introduced to the owners, who were clearly the source of the great buzz of the open kitchen and guests. I was happy to have a choice of whole or demi (half) portions so we could try many things on the menu. It changes frequently based on what is fresh. You can't go wrong.
- L'Avenue. This is where to go for when you want to wear the chic, fashion-forward outfit you purchased on a shopping spree the day prior. The best way to describe L'Avenue is fabulous. It's sophisticated but also cozy with velvet chairs and dim lighting. The menu is French with an Asian twist; I always love the thai beef tenderloin as well as the chicken spring roles, and of course les frites! It's a celebrity haunt; last I was there was June 2017 during the French Open and I sat across from Rafael Nadal. *swoon*
- Brasserie Thoumieux. Located in the lobby of a hotel, this classic brasserie has been serving elite guests since 1923. The red banquettes, gilded mirrors and wooden floors evoke a typical French brasserie, though the food - even the burger and steak tartare - is elevated in taste.
- Septime. Another famous spot with a market-driven, contemporary tasting menu and world-class natural wine pairing, this time brought to you by the formidable Bertrand Grébaut. Septime is one of the toughest reservations to get in Paris and for good reason. it's worth a try and can be done online! I also like it for its sustainable approach; it won the top award for sustainability in 2017.
- Clamato. Brought to you by the Septime team, this is one of the best, casual spots for seafood in Paris. Presented in small plates, the accompanying vegetables and tasty desserts make this great for lunch or dinner. They do not take bookings.
- Racines. Hidden in a passageway, this beloved Paris classic will not disappoint. After choosing food off a daily blackboard menu and wine from the bottles on display, you'll relax as friendly service helps you slow down from a busy day.
- Le Relais de l’Entrecôte. If you want steak frites, this is your spot. Three locations to choose from, all in great areas!
- Candelaria. If you're in Paris for long enough, you may want to try non-French fare for one of your meals. If you like fun Mexican, try Candelaria which was the first authentic taqueria to open in Paris a few years ago. Don't fret when you see only 8-10 tables when you walk in; go through the white door in the bar and you'll find more tables!
